RECONNOITERING* IN THE EASTERN SIERRA NEVADA & GREAT BASIN
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Reconnoitering Trips
Trip 2001
Northern Nevada, Southwestern Idaho
(and a Blip of Southeastern Oregon Thrown in for Good Measure)

June 19 - 28, 2001

Between June 19 and 27, 2001, I undertook a trip throughout northern Nevada, southeastern Oregon and southwestern Idaho in search of ghost towns, adventure and to enjoy the wide open spaces that the Great Basin is known for. Beside myself, there was Alan Patera, of Lake Oswego, Oregon; Graham C., of Campbell, California and Gil S., of Mentone, California. Since we were coming from different points on the map, we elected Midas, Nevada - located in the far western side of Elko County northeast of Winnemucca, as a meeting point. Graham C. and I chose to meet at Hawthorne, Nevada or at Mono Lake, depending on the circumstances of our first morning travels.

My 4x4 rig at the time was my 1996 Chevrolet S-10. It was bone stock, with standard suspension. It was powered by the 4.3 liter V6 with the higher power option; a 5-speed manual transmission; standard, lever activated 4x4 transfer case. The interior sported the LS option package, which included upgraded interior materials. Other options were bucket seats and console. The truck had nearly 100,000 miles on it when we started. It turned over the century mark during this trip, on a dirt road in the wide open spaces of northern Elko County.

Graham C. drives a 1990 Chevrolet ¾-ton 4x4 pickup with a low profile, pop-up camper. The truck is scarcely optioned, running a 350 cubic inch V8 and a 5-speed manual transmission. Graham has equipped the truck over the years for expedition and is well equipped to tackle everything (except frozen smog pumps between Jarbidge and Elko!).

Alan Patera drove his bone stock 1997 Ford Explorer. It's the most stripped Explorer I've seen, virtually no options. It's well used off road and the lack of fluff has suited this rig well.

Gill S. tagged along in his 1990 Pontiac Grand Prix. He slept in it, ate in it and drove it over miles of dirt roads. The car would have escaped unscathed, if not for his hitting a deer on the dirt road between Tuscaurora and Midas after he split from our group on the last day we all were together. He continued to drive his wrecked car for a couple more days, until he stopped to visit friends in Reno.

My camera at the time was one of the original Sony Mavica digital cameras, with a resolution of 640x480. It was in its dying stages at the time. It started acting up on the second day of the trip; completely quit and then inexplicably began working again, then died completely on the last day. I took a 35mm Pentax camera along as a backup, but used old film. None of the photos I took with the Pentax came out, I shot one roll.

Due to the tremendous amount of photos that I have taken while on this trip (more than 700), I will include only a few here on this page. To view my photos of ghost towns and historic locations, hyperlinked text will take your browser to other Web pages that display my photos taken on this trip, as well as photos taken by others; these pages will also have historic information. Simply click on those town or location names that are in blue and underlined and your browser will open these sites in a separate window.

This account is in a paraphrased format, but includes all travel and most experiences. Map below outlines the entire route.


Click to Enlarge


Part 1: June 19-20, 2001 - Trona to Big Pine to Midas to Lye Creek Campground (Santa Rosa Range)

Tuesday, June 19, 2001

Left work in Trona three hours early. Drive home to Big Pine. Pack up the truck (everything already prepared to put in). Gas up @ Big Pine Texaco - $1.95 per gallon. Mow lawn. Hit the sack at 9:30pm.

Wednesday, June 20, 2001
Get up @ 4:00am. Make coffee. Shower. Leave Big Pine @ 5:20am. 48º in Big Pine. Meet Graham C. on CA167 (the "Hawthorne Road") north of Mono Lake (we had been in contact on our FRS two-way radios for some time prior). Drive to Hawthorne, NV. Eat breakfast at the El Capitan Casino. Drive to Fallon, NV on US95. Get gas - Texaco, $1.74 per gallon. About 90º in Fallon.


In the Carson Sink

Stop at WalMart, my Sony microcassette recorder acting up and won't record without tape jamming up, buy new microcassette recorder - $29.95. Drive east on US50 a short distance, turn off to semi-ghost of Stillwater (old business buildings amid newer homes). Photograph and video Stillwater. Drive north on dirt road through Carson Sink, about 50 miles of dirt road. Stop at ghost town of White Cloud City (Coppereid) (Smelter ruins, ruins of two large stone structures a hundred yards south of flowing creek). Drive north on dirt roads to Unionville. Tour Unionville (occupied homes, a few historic structures, very nice, luxurious homes). Woman stops me to ask me what we're doing, seems suspicious of our stopping every few feet to photograph the town.


WalMart at Winnemucca - a great place for a flat!

I explain and ask her if she recalled Alan Patera in town several times doing photography and research for his Humboldt Range issue of WESTERN PLACES on a hunch that she might have met him. She does, says to tell Alan hello from the her and her husband. Drive north on paved road to I-80 at Mill City. Drive I-80 to Winnemucca. Stop and gas up - Chevron @ $1.64 per gallon. Find that I have a low tire. Drive up to WalMart. Tire center open, no customers. Tire fixed - apparent stone puncture. Cost only $6.50 to fix leak. Winnemmucca a great place to get a flat. Buy a second ice chest (no room for food + beer w/ice), it cost me $14.95. Drive to Golconda on I-80. Turn off to drive over 45 miles of dirt road to Midas, NV. Best dirt road I've ever driven on - better than many paved highways I've traveled.


Midas

Meet Mrs. B., who directs us to our camping site at school building. About 90º at Midas. I drive up to mine above town, strip and shower. Drive back down to school. Back of my truck buried in flour like dust from 150 miles of dirt road driving - I had the camper windows closed, which caused vacuum inside shell, pulling in dust. Wash out back of truck with hose at school. Set up camp. Alan Patera arrives after dark. Pull out 12-volt compressor to blow up air mattress, find that compressor is broken. Graham and I pull apart compressor to find that electric motor pulled out of compressor crankshaft. Repair, blow up mattress. Go to bed.


Midas schoolhouse, where we camped the night

 


Thursday, June 21, 2001.


When's the coffee ready??

Awake at dawn. About 55º. Break down camp. Try to wake up Graham, unsuccessful. Alan snoring away. Continue cleaning up camp. Graham wakes up. Walk over to saloon at Midas for breakfast. Have breakfast with Les, an opinionated, super-salty sea dog of a man whose vocabulary is liberally salted with four letter words, but seems to have a heart of gold - if you can mine it. We talk about life at Midas, life in the West, liberals, conservatives, eco-Nazis, Timothy McVeigh, more Midas. Great breakfast - three choices only - sausage, ham or bacon - with two eggs and white toast, take it or leave it. Sausage was huge Polish type sausage, each link nearly a foot long. Nearly couldn't eat it all. Spent 1½ hours eating and discussing and arguing above subjects. Mr. Salty wasn't such a bad guy after all. I pay for both breakfasts - $17.00. Go back to camp. Alan just waking up.


Where's your hardhat, Graham?

Go to Mrs. B's. Meet Dana B., Mrs. B's youngest daughter. She talks to Alan about reprinting her book on Midas. She has three copies left, which are snapped up by Alan, Graham and myself. Autographed. Graham only has $20, so he buys my copy. We hop in Mrs. B's 4x4 Suburban for tour of Midas (a few old structures, many mobile homes, newer homes, modular homes; picturesque canyon setting). Up canyon, photogenic mine. My digital camera (Sony Mavica FD5) starts acting up - won't eject disk. I spend 45 minutes trying to coax camera to spit out disk. Tour cemetery. Back to the B's. Camera suddenly without warning ejects disk as if nothing happened. Have refreshments with B's. While there, a Swan's truck and UPS truck come by. Graham buys box of drumstick ice cream from Swan's guy and shares with all. B's buy lots of frozen food for July 4th celebration coming up. Look at the B. workshop with old blacksmith tools. Mine tunnel goes back into mountain inside shop. Wagon used in 1911 massacre of Indians, used to haul bodies away for burial, is in B's yard by shop. Videotape Graham and Dana in tunnel. Graham whacks his head inside tunnel, finds out why miners wore hardhats.

Videotape Dana narrating use of wagon while standing in front of it. Stand and talk out in yard. B's dog scares up a big bull snake (pine gopher). Graham goes after snake - Graham is Australian by birth and is facinated by snakes. Go back to schoolhouse. I go up to top of hill by cemetery for photographs lost when camera was acting up and to watch for Gil S. who is to arrive at noon. Top of hill is known in Midas as only place a cell phone works, so make a call home. Gil seen driving up canyon at 12:10pm in his blue early '90s Pontiac Grand Prix. All meet at schoolhouse. After Gil gets tour, we leave Midas. Gil uses my spare FRS radio, everyone else has own. Drive back out dirt road for I-80 at Golconda. Rock flies off Graham's back tires and chips my windshield. Drive to Winnemucca. Get gas.

Drive north on US95 to NV290. Drive to Paradise Valley. Photograph old abandoned buildings in old business district. Beautiful valley with high, snow capped mountains on west. Try to find road leading to Spring City and Queen City ghost towns. Get lost - once, twice, three times. Graham and Gil decide to drive north over Hinkey Summit to Lye Creek Campground high in the Santa Rosa Range. Alan and I drive our separate vehicles to Spring City. Axle deep flour dust in the valley floor, narrow and cliff hugging road in mountains. Find Spring City - several stone walls, mill ruins, milling and mining machinery. Walk up into superb bowl with cottonwood trees and super campsite. Drive back to Paradise Valley.


Paradise Valley


In search of Spring City



My digital camera suddenly acts up again, refusing to recognize the floppy disks. Loose opportunity to photograph the most wonderful sunset colors on the Santa Rosa Range. Chase Alan up into and over Hinkey Summit (dirt roads). Wonderful road switchbacking up under and over dramatic basaltic cliffs 1,000 feet high. Aspens and meadows all along. Get to Lye Creek campground at dusk. Set up camp in thick aspen grove. Cook supper. Eat and drink. Toast of beer all around (except Gil, who had coffee) to celebrate all of us finally getting the trip started. Set up bed in truck, fall asleep. Gil sleeps in his car (which he does each night of the trip).

Continue to June 22nd

©2002, 2004, 2005, 2006 D.A. Wright
All Rights Reserved

Revised: 08/14/2006