RESN&GB4x4 Trips: Swansea to Cerro Gordo Photo Essay

RECONNOITERING IN THE EASTERN SIERRA NEVADA & GREAT BASIN
BY 4-WHEEL-DRIVE
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RESN&GB4x4 Trips:

The Swansea to Cerro Gordo Road:

Selected Photos from All My Trail Reconnoiterings

Introduction: This page is primarily a photo essay for those who wish to travel the Swansea to Cerro Gordo route to get a better feel for what the road has to offer in both the way of beauty, history and challenges. It is a companion page to my primary Swansea to Cerro Gordo 4x4 Trail page, which explains the trail in more detail – the history, trail conditions, etcetera. This photo essay will break down the trail into several sections and will also include two ways to leave Cerro Gordo, as does the primary page on the trail.

Between 2003 and 2006, I made a total of five complete trips over the entire road, and two partial runs to check on the worst areas after heavy flashflood activity in the region. My first trip with with Roger and Cecile Vargo on July, 20, 2003; my last run was guiding “UncleBarry” (Internet screen name on several Death Valley related forums) over the trail on November 4, 2006. In October of 2003, along with two others, I made the trail run an overnighter; camping at the Saline Valley salt tramway summit station. All of my runs have started at Swansea and have ended at Cerro Gordo (north to south).

All my photos are thumbnailed to reduce bandwidth. Simply double click on any image to open full size. The date stamp on all images will indicate the date of the trip. It is my attempt to group the images – regardless of date – by it's location on the trail; thus this page will progress photographically over the entire trail. To facilitate this, I've broken down the trail into several sections.

Enjoy this presentation of my interpretation of the Swansea to Cerro Gordo 4x4 Trail!

Part 1 – Swansea to the 3.5 mile mark.

This section begins at the junction of CA136 and the Swansea to Cerro Gordo road, east of Lone Pine and north of Keeler. It first climbs an easy alluvial fan, then enters a canyon. The road in the canyon varies from easy to moderate until the canyon narrows considerably, then the trail is full of bedrock. The road tops a summit, then drops into another canyon. At the 3.5 mile mark, the traveler is at the base of the first major hillclimb.

DOUBLE CLICK ANY IMAGE TO OPEN FULL SIZE Start of the trail at Swansea.
Leading UncleBarry and his late 1950s Willy's pickup. Barry had attempted to run this trail on two previous occasions, but had to turn back due to fuel deliver problems to the truck's Chevrolet V8 engine. In October, 2006, he finally was able to make it over the entire run.

The first crossing of the Saline Valley salt tramway line is found in this vicinity.	Where the canyon starts to constrict, the trail starts to turn rougher.

		The Saline Valley salt tramway towers dominate the scene while driving up this stretch of the canyon.
A brief respite at the head of the canyon. Driving down into the bottom of another canyon will bring one to the 3.5 mile mark and the bottom of the first major hill climb.

Part 2 – 3.5 mile mark to 4.1 mile mark.

This section is made up of a two part hill climb. The first part of the hill climb looks intimidating as you approach, but isn't as bad as it looks. Near the top, staggered whoop-de-doos might pose some traction issues without enough forward momentum for vehicles not equipped with a locking differential due to axle articulation lifting each wheel in succession off the ground.

At the top of the first hillclimb, the route takes a sharp turn to the left and begins to climb a route that lost its topsoil during flashflooding in the summer of 2003 and has become a gnarly, bedrock ridden climb, slightly off camber in places.

Part 3 - 4.1 mile mark (top of bedrock climb) to 13.1 mile mark (Burgess Mine).

This section is made up of the remainder of the trail to the top of the Inyo Range at the site of Burgess. For the most part, the trail climbs gently to moderately with few challenges. At the site of Burgess, the traveler is atop the very crest of the Inyo Range, with tremendous views east and west.

	Mt. Whitney dominates the view directly over the second vehicle.
This canyon brings the traveler into the piñon pine belt, which will vary in thickness until the traveler breaks out above it near Burgess.

		The last hurdle to Burgess.	Group parking at Burgess.
Burgess. View east.	Burgess makes a nice lunch stop to enjoy the views.	Burgess.	Viewing Saline Valley on a smoky day. Two forest fires in the southern Sierra Nevada muddled the views on this trip.
Burgess.	Looking across Burgess north to south.		The view of Mt. Whitney and the Sierra Nevada from Burgess.

	View over Owens Lake and southward along the southernmost Sierra Nevada.		View south along the spine of the Inyo Range.

Part 4 - Burgess Mine to Tramway summit station (4.9 miles).

This portion of the trail rides the spine of the Inyo Range and meanders on both sides. Magnificent views abound, especially in the first couple of miles; then the trail gets into thick mountain mahogany, which blocks much of the view outward. Shortly, those with sharp eyes will spot the eastern droop of the salt tram summit station in the distance. Reaching the summit station of the salt tram one will find vistas, history and a neat place to stay for an hour or overnight.

Leaving Burgess.		Roger Vargo pauses to speak with a BLM ranger that happened to be wandering northward.

	Can you spot it? The Saline Valley salt tramway summit station is now visible.

Part 5 – The Tramway summit station.

The Saline Valley salt tramway summit station is a great place to camp or stop for lunch. The cabin that housed the operator of the summit station has undergone stabilization in recent years and is a safe place to enjoy some time enjoying the ambiance of the summit of the Inyo Range. Exploring the grounds of the cabin and the tramway cross-over structure affords gorgeous views of Saline Valley and the country beyond, as well as portions of the Owens Valley and the Sierra Nevada Range. Please respect and protect the structures.


			Dining Saline Valley tramway style.
A chilly and windy October night prompted setting up camp in the attendant's cabin.	Camping in my truck at the summit station.
Lunch on the back porch of the station attendant's cabin.		Youthful exuberance, climbing about in the upper structure of the crossover structure.

Part 6 – The Tramway summit station to the top of Boiler Canyon (3.25 miles).

Trail continues south from the Saline Valley salt tramway summit station, climbing to a high point and meandering along the ridge of the Inyos. Views east and west open and close with each turn.


		Though not named on the topographic maps, locals call this 9,690 foot high promontory Pleasant Mountain. Bristlecone and limber pines grow on its steep flanks.

These limber pines grow next to the trail. Old stumps next to them mark those that had fallen to the woodcutter's axe nearly a century and a half ago to feed the steam boilers at either the Cerro Gordo mills or the pumps of the water system from nearby Mexican Spring and Cerro Gordo Spring.	Patches of early snow dot the slopes of the Inyo Range, a precursor that soon the trail will be impassable for another winter season.
Cerro Gordo Spring pump house. This building housed the steam pumps that brought water up from Mexican Spring to a level near the road to bring water to Cerro Gordo.	The view from the trail above Cerro Gordo Spring.

Part 7 – Top of Boiler Canyon to bottom of Boiler Canyon (1.4 miles).

Though not named on the maps, you'll know you're in what locals call Boiler Canyon once you get there. The drop into Boiler Canyon presents an approximately 1,540 foot drop in elevation in a mile and a half. Much of this portion of the route is off camber and covered in places with a thick coating of loose shale, which is akin to driving on ice at times. Northbound travelers will likely find themselves struggling for traction; southbound voyagers will be in what I term a controlled slide – your vehicle is sliding at a speed faster than your wheels are turning. No problem, as your vehicle is safe from sliding off the roadway and speeds are slow – if you started off slow to begin with.

Dropping over the edge into Boiler Canyon.
	Slip-sliding into the bottom of Boiler Canyon.
	This fellow almost didn't make it; dropping his bike a couple of times and struggling for traction on the steep and slick trail.	An old International Scout is found in the bottom of Boiler Canyon.

Part 8 – Bottom of Boiler Canyon to Cerro Gordo (2.3 miles).

The climb out of Boiler Canyon has no technical issues. While down in Boiler Canyon, looking up on the western face of Pleasant Mountain you will spot a lateral road and a structure far above you. This is the gradient of the water line coming in to Cerro Gordo and one of the pump houses. Once topping the side of Boiler Canyon, you will cross paths with the water system again. For the driver, the rest of the way into Cerro Gordo is akin to flying – the view out your passenger window is open with no apparent means of support. Keep an eye on the road, though. It's often narrow and at times small landslides need care – or a shovel – to cross.

Exiting Boiler Canyon.

	Dusk over Owens Lake.	The first view of Cerro Gordo.
Full moonrise over Cerro Gordo.

Part 9 – Cerro Gordo.

Cerro Gordo is, for the most part, private property. It is also occupied. If the owner, Mike Patterson, is around, you might be treated to a tour if he has time.

NOTE – 9/24/2009: Sad news has reached me that Mike Patterson had died as of early this morning. I have no idea as to how this will impact Cerro Gordo, access to the town and visiting the restored buildings. Updates will be put up when they reach me.

NOTE 12/19/2009 ~ A group of volunteers has kept tourism at Cerro Gordo going during the remainder of the season after Mike Patterson's untimely death. There will be a memorial service held in spring 2010 for Mike. For information on visiting Cerro Gordo, contact Roger and Cecile Vargo at cecile@explorehistoricalif.com


	Relaxing in the American Hotel.	Mike Patterson listens to some impromptu banjo music in the American Hotel.

Part 10 – Cerro Gordo to CA136 @ Keeler – the “Yellow Grade” road (7.3 miles).

The easiest and swiftest way to reach the Owens Valley floor is by way of the “Yellow Grade.” It is maintained by Inyo County and generally no worse than washboarded. It's also steep, so it's my practice to keep my truck in 4-Low to keep the speeds under control and my foot off the brakes.

This view gives you an idea of the general route of the Yellow Grade.

Part 11 – Cerro Gordo to Lee Flat @ Saline Valley road (16.7 miles).

For those wishing to maximize their dirt road pleasure, you can also exit Cerro Gordo via the road east. This road will drop you down into San Lucas Canyon, then south up the canyon and into Lee Flat. At the Saline Valley road, you can either return to pavement via CA190 and head east into Death Valley or west back into Owens Valley. Or you can travel north into Saline Valley.

So that's my photo essay with photos taken on all my travels over the Swansea to Cerro Gordo Trail. Now it's time to go make some of your own memories!

Page Revised: 12/19/2009