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RECONNOITERING
IN THE EASTERN SIERRA NEVADA & GREAT BASIN |
RESN&GB4x4 Trips:
The
Fringes of Death Valley:
Guiding The Old Trailmaster Around the
Gold Mountain Country
For some months previous to March, 2008, I had been corresponding regularly with a certain Steve Greene, aka “The Old Trailmaster” of Death Valley. This marauding Mojave maverick currently resides in the Oregon coastal region, and though now far removed mileage-wise, continues to be seen roaming the dusty roads and trails of Death Valley on occasion. It is widely reported that he travels alone through the region's obscure canyons, mountains, and valleys ... yet, as I was soon to learn, he is not adverse to taking on a companion or two.
Late in 2007, I suddenly received an email from the previously unknown Steve with comments on the Steele Pass and Lippincott grade roads. Replying and subsequent emails found that Steve and I had much in common, and so we continued nearly daily dialog back and forth via electronic mail medium.
Steve runs his own Death Valley based website, as well as a published author of several books. A veteran of Death Valley travel, Steve has taken many roads in the Death Valley in his series of 4WD vehicles, including his latest, a 2005 Nissan Xterra with the factory off road package.
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One area of Death Valley that Steve had not yet visited was the northernmost region of the valley. This area includes the Tule Canyon, Oriental Wash and Gold Mountain country that lies primarily in Nevada, thus outside of Death Valley National Park, yet still is considered part of the Death Valley region. Due to the area's remoteness and distance from available gas stations, Steve felt that a knowledgeable guide might prove beneficial to reduce his potential of running dangerously low on fuel in a region that is known as a labyrinth of unmarked dirt roads. Since gas has not been available at Scotty's Castle, and there seems to be no evidence that it will again be in the foreseeable future, Steve would have to fill his rig at Stovepipe Wells, thereby reducing further his reserve in the secluded Nevada landscape. Being a fellow who methodically keeps his risks to a minimum, he sought my experience in the area. He wanted to go, especially since he had one book out on Death Valley and another – at this point only a set of ideas floating in his brain cells – on the must do list, so he felt he really needed to visit and photograph the region |
Detailed
in one of Steve's emails about February of 2008 was the need to visit
family in southern California and on such trips he generally tries to
include time and mileage in Death Valley. He inquired that since I
was living nearby, would I / could I guide The Old Trailmaster in and
around the Gold Mountain country? Sure! Why not? Through a volley of
emails, we finally settled on March 18th, 2008 on the
calendar and the Nevada state line east of Crankshaft Crossing for
our meeting.
My friend Graham C. and his dog Toby are always eager to get out of the house and exercise the front axle on his silver 2000 Toyota Tacoma TRD 4WD pickup, so a phone call to Graham gave me an affirmative reply for his company in which to take a reconnoiter over to Crankshaft Crossing country east of our homes in Big Pine, California.
So it was, on a cool morning on March 18th, 2008, that Graham and pointed the noses of our white and silver Tacomas eastward for the relatively short jaunt to Crankshaft Crossing east of our Owens Valley village. Graham and I had CB radios, Steve did not. Steve had a GMRS radio with FRS capability, Graham and I each also had FRS 2-way radios; so Steve and I while in our planning stage had settled on a particular FRS channel to hail each other when we got within range.
To facilitate photo placement, I will break down this travelogue into sections. As usual, my photos will be thumbnailed. Clicking on any thumbnail image will open the photo to full size in a separate window.
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Part 1: Big Pine to the Nevada State Line
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At 6:25 AM, I pulled out of my driveway to cover the two miles over to Graham's house. Beginning mileage on my Tacoma was 115,398 miles and I zeroed both trip odometers. My first quarter mile was spent fighting with my Delphi NAV200 navigator, which often has a mind of its own and does what it wants to do instead of what it's told to do. In addition, I also had my Garmin eTrex along and functioning alongside the Delphi. Otherwise, the weather was nice, clear and a mild 41° registered on my outdoor thermometer. Graham was ready and waiting when I pulled up to his house, his Tacoma warming up outside in his driveway. I had been experiencing some transmission quality problems with my CB radio and we tried various microphones that Graham and I had among our spares to see if this would help. But we still got away from Graham's house by 6:37 AM even with the tinkering. The road across the Inyo Range on the Big Pine-Death Valley road proved to be of no challenge, as snows had been relatively meager this past winter and the recent weather warm enough to melt much of what had fallen. Only patches on the shady slopes at the summit of the range whitened slightly the ground between the piñons. |
At
a point 35.9 miles since leaving my home, and at 7:25 AM, Graham and
I reached the end of the pavement in Eureka Valley and stopped to air
down our tires. Both of us like to run approximately 18 psi on our
B.F. Goodrich All Terrain T/A off road tires, which aids in smoothing
the ride over the washboards and rocks while out in the backcountry.
I noticed that there was a new Death Valley National Park sign at
this point. The DVNP boundary is actually way up near the summit of
the Inyos, but over the years I've noticed that the sign tended to
wander around a few times as politicians and bureaucrats and
geographers try to make up their mind if the Big Pine-Death Valley
road is actually a cherry stem or fully within Death Valley National
Park. No big deal, by 7:40 Graham and I rolled our twin Tacoma
caravan forward.
The road across Eureka Valley was relatively smooth and washboard free, although to avoid eating my dust, Graham chose one side of the road, I the other. If viewed from above, we probably looked like a couple of military jets in formation. The crossing of the Last Chance Range, though, was not washboard free, which prompted soapbox comments from both of us via our CB radios. Some of those comments were foul enough that our mother's would have used some soap from that soapbox to wash out our mouths ...
At 8:06 AM, as Graham and I crossed over the summit of the Last Chance Range, a faint but tangible transmission coming from Steve Greene greeted us. He was awaiting us at the state line as planned, a position about six air miles from ours. Steve had his radio turned on awaiting the first blips of radio signal indicating our advancement in his direction; and when he heard us he hailed out that he was awaiting us at the planned meeting point.
At a point 55.1 miles and 1 hour and 47 minutes since leaving my house, Graham and I turned off the Big Pine-Death Valley Road at Crankshaft Crossing and onto the road running across the northernmost edge of Death Valley itself. Twenty one minutes later, we had a visual on Steve and his Nissan parked just a few yards inside California and Death Valley National Park.
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Part 2: Nevada State Line to Stateline, Nevada Ghost Town Site
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Graham, Steve and I stood around for 1 hour and 30 minutes exactly at the state line and got acquainted, compared vehicles and enjoyed the quiet and solitude that the spot affords. Then we decided it was time to reconnoiter. Our first destination was discussed as we began our way a bit further east to access the mouth of Tule Canyon and it was determined the first stop of the day would be the ghost town of Stateline. Stateline sat northeast of us, a few miles south of the semi-ghost of Gold Point, at the western end of Slate Ridge. Our byway just entered the mouth of Tule Canyon, then we immediately turned out of the canyon on another road to follow a traverse road across to Oriental Wash. The roads were newly bladed by Esmeralda County, Nevada and were in fine shape. However, at some point in the past, the road's direction was changed – instead of heading sharply south to less than a quarter mile from the state line, it now angled southeast to access the road up Oriental Wash considerably east of its original junction. My Delphi navigator, which showed the original road, now showed my location as being in the middle of the desert. But the new road did cut off some distance and soon the road up Oriental Wash came into view – both visually with my eyes and digitally with the Delphi's satellite guided “eyes”. |
Traveling
up Oriental Wash, I noticed that the Joshua trees were in their
beginning stages of bloom. The view in my rearview mirror also
revealed a spectacle of the mountain ranges – the Last Chance,
Inyo and Sierra Nevada – stacked up and covered with snow and
the vistas were very scenic. So I stopped our caravan and we all went
up on flat shoulder of the wash to enjoy some photography.
We restarted our caravan to continue ahead to Stateline ghost town. Along the way, I noted this into my ever present microcassette recorder, based upon our radio conversations:
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“I think Graham forgot to bring lunch. ... Steve quipped that we could eat at the Burger King at Stateline. Graham said that sounded good to him. I came back that I’d rather eat at the Tokop Taco Bell.” |
At
a point 75.1 miles since leaving my home, our party arrived at the
headframe at Stateline. Our group scattered and coalesced repeatedly
as we each sought our own photographic and philosophic experiences at
the town. I've visited this site numerous times, Graham has a time or
two, this was Steve's first.
At 12:31 PM, our group made good on the movement to have lunch, so we circled our wagons around the headframe and enjoyed our lunch with a view of Gold Mountain and the intervening upper Oriental Wash country in between. Our lunch menus proved quite diverse – I had half a tuna sandwich, some Fritos, a piece of beef jerky and a donut; Graham had hard boiled eggs, chicken pieces, chips and dip; Steve had soy nuts and a V-8 juice. Steve, being from Oregon, shared with us a seasonal Cliff health food bar – iced gingerbread – for a bit of desert. I'm sure it was far healthier than my donut. Lunchtime conversation ran rather droll – our various painful operations and autopsies. Steve spent many years in law enforcement and dead bodies and autopsies were routine in his line of work; I aided on two of them during my years working with Mono County, California in the 1970s and 1980s.
At 1:36 PM, we elected to move on. Still being late winter, darkness would come fairly early and we were burning daylight. Our next destination was about six miles away at Oriental ghost town site.
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Part 3: Stateline, Nevada Ghost Town Site to Oriental Ghost Town Site
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It is a quick run over to Oriental from Stateline, and both are within sight of each other. Stateline, though its elevation is 6,000 feet, is still ensconced within the desert – with scant brush, scattered and stunted desert brush and Joshua trees; Oriental sits just inside the piñon forest belt, although there are still a few Joshua trees present mixed in with the piñons as well. The route takes one along through a thick and scenic Joshua tree forest. History runs along this road also - the sharp eyed may spot a few 4”x4” posts broken off near the ground – these were once the main power line poles that carried electricity from Bishop Creek – southwest of Bishop, California and Rhyolite, Nevada. My trip odometer read 81.1 miles when we pulled into “downtown” Oriental. In the shady areas, snow still lingered about. A sad note that I found is that the only remaining wooden cabin – reportedly the post office, had fallen. I had witnessed it's deterioration over the years, but it was still standing when I last visited in 2004. Graham had recently been to Oriental and told us about a neat mine that was quite safe, so we head over to that location for a look-see. Graham is really into exploring old mines; I don't like being in them but do reluctantly go just for a photo or two and get out quickly; Steve falling somewhere between these two comfort zones. |
A
short distance across the gulch was a ridgeback splitting Oriental
Wash into two parts. In the ridgeback was a deep bore with large,
flat tailings and ore cart trackage extending out to the end of the
dump. Atop the ridgeback were several newer vehicles and a drilling
rig setup, indicating that exploratory work was in progress. Graham,
Steve and I grabbed our respective flashlights and entered the bore
into the ridge.
Ribbons hanging from the ceiling had numerals indicating the distance from the portal of the adit. The last one I saw was indicating that we were in 300 feet. About 150 feet beyond that ribbon, the adit took a sharp 90° left turn and it was there I nearly lost my lunch ... the ore cart tracks crossing an unprotected vertical drop of an undetermined depth! I was so busy following my flashlight beam ahead that I nearly stepped into the maw of death deep in the bowels of the earth. Beyond were Graham and Toby in a large hollowed out section of adit, that looked to have been blasted out but not mucked out.
It was nearly 3:00 PM by the time we exited the adit. Daylight was burning fast and there was still so much to do and see.
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Part 4: Oriental Ghost Town Site to Tule Canyon
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It was time to leave Oriental. But I first wanted to see if I could access a canyon that cuts the ridgeback on its east side to access Oriental's main mine – the Empress. Along the canyon below the mine are scattered ruins and mill foundations. And that road would allow us to access the main road up to the site of Tokop. There at Tokop are found numerous ruins, plus the mountaintop views are grand. However, as soon as I turned up the road from our position, I encountered deep snow. So our plans changed and our goal was now to run back down into Death Valley and into the mouth of Tule Canyon, then the length of the canyon to its summit, then try to run down Cucomungo Canyon and into Eureka Valley. That would leave Steve with the option of camping the night near the sand dunes in Eureka Valley with an easy egress out of Eureka either into Big Pine on US395 or head north via North Eureka Road into Fish Lake Valley and the small ranch town of Dyer, Nevada, either of which would put precious petrol into his tank. Our caravan turned down Oriental Wash and followed it back to the cross-over road to Tule Canyon. Then we turned up that historic wash that cuts south into Death Valley from the high slopes of Magruder Mountain. My truck's outdoor thermometer was reading a pleasant 74°. |
Three-tenths
of a mile after dropping back into Tule Canyon, the first ruins come
into sight. On the east side of the road is an old Caterpillar
bulldozer, parked next to a mine adit. Across the roadway and on the
canyon's west side are several stone foundations. We stood for a
while talking and enjoying the nice balmy weather, pondering such
scientific anomalies as why the back of Steve's Nissan Xterra gets so
dirty on dirt roads while the back end of both my truck and Graham's
stay relatively clean. After we discussed that topic at length, Steve
suddenly blurted out - “Let's boogie!”
Roosevelt City townsite was the next stop of our Tule Canyon train; it coming on the 101.5 mile mark on my trip odometer. Seeing the main cabin at the site deteriorate badly over the 15 years that I've been coming by in fairly regular fashion made me wonder if it had met the same fate as the Oriental post office. But it was still standing, but looking more spare and weak than it had been on my last visit.
Midway up Tule Canyon the traveler has a choice – either continue straight ahead and through a 1990s era placer operation; or exit the canyon via a short detour and up on the edge of Lida Valley. The placer operation has been reclaimed, but the road through there is still very rough as the original road was removed during placer operations. We elected the latter – exit the canyon. However, midway through the placer operation is the site of Rachfords, an old stage station.
Exiting the canyon, our group got out of the confines of Tule Canyon and enjoyed the wide open vistas of Lida Valley. Finding the main road running between the semi ghost town of Gold Point and Tule Canyon, we dropped back into the canyon to see Rachfords. At that point, I had covered 108.3 miles and it was now 4:32 PM. Just after we turned off our engines and exited our vehicles, a gorgeous ruddy and golden colored fox sauntered off a short distance and then watched us through the sagebrush.
After satisfying the appropriate quota of digital pixels expended on the stage stop, we elected to backtrack the quarter mile to Lida Valley, then continue north on the bypass. As that road follows the brim of Tule Canyon around the apex of its turn from a north-south to an west-east trend, we had gorgeous views both up the canyon or down the canyon and across to the snowy peaks of Death Valley's Panamint Range.
Dropping back into the canyon at the northern end of the placering operation, we resumed up the original road through Tule Canyon. The site of Senner was the next standing ruin to see – only Senner wasn't standing anymore. Like Oriental, heavy winter snows and age finally took its toll. By the time we hit Senner, we were also starting to hit more and more snow, now starting to impinge on the road as well. Our thoughts turned to wondering if we could make Tule Summit. And if we did, could we make it along the roads north or across and down Cucomungo Canyon. The piñon forests run thick north of Tule Summit and in the uppermost stretch of Cucomungo Canyon; the road traversing the country between Tule Summit and the head of Cucomungo Canyon is faint; and to boot the trend of the land is sloping to the north, away from the sun's snow melting rays. And the sun's warmth was getting pretty close to the horizon as well.
A mile or so past the site of Senner, Tule Canyon constricts and becomes heavily wooded. The snow increased in depth and coverage as our caravan continued to probe its upper depths. All of us had trepidations as to what lay ahead. In what appeared to be the last sunny spot we would hit in a long time, we stopped to scratch our heads and probe our options. I decided to continue ahead and have a look-see as to what might be around the next bend.
What was around the bend was axle to door deep snow.
Steve and I walked a bit further up the road and determined very quickly it was futile to attempt any further forward movement. Sundown wasn't that far away (in fact it had already occurred at the spot we were at) and the risk of one or all of our trucks digging in was too high. So we turned our wagons around and head back down Tule Canyon. A big, nearly full moon was rising out over Lida Valley.
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Part 4: Tule Canyon to Wiley Road @ NV266
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Retracing our path down Tule Canyon was easy, and we exited the canyon at the northern bypass. Evening shadows made for beautiful views south into Death Valley, with snow capped peaks and crystal clear vistas, which made us all stop to admire the gorgeous views. A check of the map allowed me to show Steve the small community of Dyer, Nevada, over in Fish Lake Valley; it's gas pumps at the Esmeralda Market; and the way north up US95 and to access Reno via US50 Alternate into Reno. Steve decided he'd make a beeline for home with an overnight stop somewhere after driving as long as he could stand it. The smooth dirt roads of Lida Valley allowed an easy 55 miles per hour saunter across Lida Valley so that Steve could catch a glimpse of Gold Point, with all three of our trucks leaving a contrail of dust lingering in the calm air very visible in the setting sun to the west. A stop at the edge of Gold Point – bathed in the last rays of the setting sun – allowed us to snap a few photos, then we all made a beeline out Wiley Road northwest toward Lida and NV266. |
At
NV266, my trip odometer read 135.3 miles and it was now 6:09 PM. The
sun was just setting for good as I pulled up to a stop. The dust
trails of Steve and Graham were still two or three miles behind me.
After Steve and Graham caught up with me at the junction, we all
discussed our day briefly. Then Steve – itching to get going –
bid us goodbye and raced off on NV266 Dyer bound. Steve had a long
way to travel for home in Oregon – far from Gold Point and
Dyer.
Graham and I aired up or respective tires, then make our way west on NV266 as well. It was 6:45 PM by the time we started our trucks and head west.
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Part 5: Wiley Road @ NV266 to Big Pine
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An hour and nineteen minutes later, I pulled into my driveway. My truck had traveled a total of 202.3 miles and it now had 115,600 miles on it. A couple of days later, I got an email from Steve. He had arrived at the Esmeralda Market in Dyer, found it closed for the night. But he was able to make Hawthorne, Nevada with plenty of petrol in his tank. Since he was still in driving mode, he forded on, finally crapping out south of Mount Shasta in the early morning hours. After a chilly nap in his Xterra for a couple of hours, he made it home by late morning. The Old Trailmaster has finally filled in one of the last remaining gaps in his quest to see every nook that Death Valley has to offer. |
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Part
6: Further Reading
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©2009
D.A. Wright
All Rights Reserved
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