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RECONNOITERING
IN THE EASTERN SIERRA NEVADA & GREAT BASIN |
Exploration
Trips
The
Greenwater Region of Eastern Death Valley National Park
Furnace
ghost town site, Kunze (original Greenwater) ghost town site, Ramsey
(new Greenwater) ghost town site, Gold Valley, Gold Valley ghost town
site, Willow Spring, Willow Creek ghost town site.
Day 2: November 23, 2002
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Dawn arrived early after a windy night. Though comfortable, I awoke in the middle of the night and laid awake for a long while; which made for a groggy awakening just before the sun arose over the distant Spring Mountain Range to the east.
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I
crawled from the back of the truck and set up my digital and video
cameras to record the sunrise. The wind, which had blown hard during
the night from the southwest had now turned to blow cold and equally
hard from the north. Then the primary task was to set up the Coleman
stove and heat water for coffee. Isn’t camp coffee made with an
old jar of instant coffee wonderful? Yuck! But it sure wakes you up.
Breakfast consisted of some Cheerios, milk and a banana.
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John
was getting up about the time I began cleaning up my camp and he
busied himself with getting ready to start his day. To clean up and
take care of morning business, I pulled out on the tailings pile,
where the end dipped enough to give me some privacy; whereupon I
stripped and took a sponge bath in the cold morning air. What
remaining sleepiness not taken care of by the coffee, I was
thoroughly woke up standing wet and naked in the morning breeze high
in the Black Mountains overlooking Greenwater Valley!
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John and I finished our morning business and were ready to roll. Our topo maps indicated the road above the tailings ran a short distance to the crest of the Black Mountains and afforded a looksee over the other side into Death Valley. We drove up the mountainside and the last hop up to the crest was some fun with a steep and loose climb along with some whoop-de-doos to add to the fun. I’ve had experience with these in the past, but it was John’s first steep climb. The view from the top of the range was superb to the east with a 180º view. The view into Death Valley was blocked a bit by a peak higher than the point we were on jutting up from the western slope of the Black Mountains, but we could see southwest into the lower reaches of Death Valley, as well as Telescope Peak across from us a bit northwest. A cold wind knocked us around a bit as John and I videotaped and photographed the landscape from our perch. |
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After leaving our high perch, John and I returned to Furnace townsite. There, we found scattered lumber and plenty of tin cans of all shapes and sizes. John had obtained GPS coordinates for Furnace townsite from the USGS website and we followed his Garmin eTrex GPS to those coordinates, which required a half mile cross country scramble. But, we found nothing except some tin cans about half way. Returning to our trucks, however, we found what just may be the main street of Furnace, it being a short distance off the current road running through. We based this upon what appears to be a leveled terrace just off the bottom of a wash, and comparing the landscape with that in a 1906 photo of Furnace we had along. |
Leaving
Furnace, John and I continued south to the Kunze townsite, which was
the original Greenwater. A stone cabin still stands here, as well as
several other stone ruins. We spent a while at Kunze, spending our
time exploring, having lunch and even myself taking a nap.
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Inyo
Independent,
October 12, 1906 |
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The
Kunze site was located in a shallow and narrow canyon. High hopes
were entertained for Greenwater and the cramped canyon was no place
for a big city with all the amenities that comes with it. Greenwater
needed room to grow to the big city it was destined to come, so
Greenwater held a moving day.
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After our time at Kunze, we continued west on the road through the townsite up and into the Black Mountains. Greenwater had moved during its heyday, so was it time for us to move on. The road west from Kunze passed through some interesting country with superb lighting of the late afternoon, but the land was barren of ruins or prospects. Our road then suddenly changed directions and dropped us back down into the Ramsey townsite of Greenwater, which was the second or new Greenwater. Central in the townsite is an old Auto Club sign which was placed there during a 1906-10 campaign by the Auto Club to sign the desert for early travelers. The sign was still legible until the early 1970s, but today is unrecognizable and festooned with all manner of junk found nearby. |
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John and I were
thinking of Greenwater Spring up the mountainside for our camp
for the night, but upon taking the road to the spring a Park
Service barrier identified that the road was closed and the area
now being reclaimed for wilderness. So we went south to see if we
could find the cemetery marked on the topo map. With the sun down
and dusk advancing, we decided to go back around to the Ramsey
townsite to find suitable places to park and camp for the
night. |
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On to Day 3: Sunday, November 24, 2002
©2002,
2005, 2006 D.A. Wright
All Rights Reserved
Last
Revised: