Reconnoitering in the Great Basin & Eastern Sierra By 4x4

RECONNOITERING IN THE EASTERN SIERRA NEVADA & GREAT BASIN
BY 4-WHEEL-DRIVE
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4x4 Trails:
Eureka Valley to Gilbert Pass (CA168)

Trail Difficulty:	Easy w/short sections of Moderate.
Season:	All year. There will likely be snow in the upper elevations of the trail and at Gilbert Pass area in winter. Summertime temperatures, though not extreme due to higher elevations, will still be pretty hot during mid-day and afternoon hours.
Elevations:	About 3,410' at route's Eureka Valley terminus; 6,374' at Gilbert Summit.
Cell phone Signal:	No.
Running Surface Water?:	No.
Distance to Civilization:	It is 33 miles from Gilbert Summit to Big Pine; 34 miles from trail's junction w/Eureka Valley Road and Big Pine over paved roads. It is 14.3 miles between Eureka Valley and Gilbert Pass along this road. Dyer, Nevada is about 21 miles north of Gilbert Summit via paved highway and offers a small grocery store with gasoline.
Trail Travel Density:	Light – you likely will be the only one out there.
Nearest Supplies/Emergency Aid:	Big Pine, California or Dyer, Nevada.

The Eureka to Gilbert trail doesn't have any history; it doesn't have an noteworthy challenge for off-road prowess; it doesn't have any distinguished landmarks. But what it lacks it makes up for in wide open spaces, solitude, scenery and vistas. The entire route is cherry stemmed inside the Piper Mountain Wilderness Area and is outside the northern boundary of Death Valley National Park on lands administered by the Bureau of Land Management.

The trail runs in a north-south trend, its terminus points only 14.3 miles apart. The trail can be taken alone or as part of an alternative route between Owens Valley and Death Valley. Or it can be combined with the Eureka Valley to Fish Lake Valley via Horsethief Canyon route or North Eureka Road to make a loop trip if you are camping in Eureka Valley. Or if you are traveling through the area and heading northward or eastward into Nevada, you can continue north through Dyer, Nevada or east through the ghost town of Palmetto, Nevada or the semi-ghost of Lida, Nevada to US95.

The route poses no particular challenge for stock SUVs, unless heavy precipitation has recently washed out the route through and along several alluvial washes. This track can be run in either direction. Even though there is an elevation gain/loss of nearly 3,000 feet, you'd be hard pressed to feel it. The path has no particularly steep climbs or descents.

The trail is normally easy enough that small crossover, all wheel drive SUVs can likely make this route also (Subaru Outback series and Forester, Honda CR-V and Pilot, Toyota RAV4 and Highlander, etcetera); although it is recommended that the driver be thoroughly knowledgeable as to what his/her vehicle is capable of, has experience with it over off road on trails such as this, equipped to handle a flat tire, clearance or traction issues. If possible, I also suggest that crossover drivers travel in groups of two or more vehicles (better if one of them is a true 4x4) in case of a situation in which it is prudent to have a second vehicle to get to safety or get help. Though not terribly far from civilization, this area is remote and seldom visited, and a long walk of many miles could spell doom for someone who is not physically capable, ill equipped, or during hot or stormy winter weather.

The trail isn't particularly rough, but there are sections of trail with stones and rocks, which have the potential to puncture passenger car rated tires most common on crossover all wheel drive vehicles. I heartily recommend LT rated (light truck) tires on all vehicles on this or most all trails in the scope of this website; although not all crossover vehicles have LT tire availability in their tire size range, or are they practical or cost effective for the majority of driving their owners use them for. If you travel this route with your AWD vehicle with “P” rated all weather radial tires, make sure your spare is in good shape and has air. A few cans of “seal and air” in your storage spaces will aid greatly, as stone punctures are usually small and easy to seal; thus may save you from having to use your jack and spare tire.

In March, 2008 I lead a friend over the entire route in his stock Toyota Highlander with stock sized all weather tires (“P” rated) and he had no real issues, although he did catch the underside of the car a few times on some of the stones along the trail. My friend has had 4x4 experience in the past and knew how to drive moderate off road trails in this and other 4x4 vehicles.

Looking at the maps of the region, this route could be used as a link along an alternative path between Bishop and Death Valley – Silver and Wyman Canyons to traverse the White Mountains, Gilbert to Eureka Valley, Steel Pass into Saline Valley, and the Lippencott grade to Racetrack Valley and then down into Death Valley via Ubehebe. Or you can simply spend a couple of pleasurable hours rambling this backroad and enjoy the scenery and vistas of the route itself as an alternative route to return to Owens Valley. This route can be covered in wildflowers and cactus blooms in springtime.

To pick up the route's northern terminus, head east from Big Pine on CA168 for 33 miles to the summit of Gilbert Summit. At the summit elevation sign, note a road heading south. A sign indicating that the route is a corridor through a wilderness area prominently marks the start of the route. At the south end, in Eureka Valley, the route is easily found very near the end of the pavement as the Big Pine-Death Valley road reaches the Eureka Valley floor at the west side of the valley, 34 miles east of Big Pine. Again, a sign indicating that the route is a wilderness corridor is found marking the route. All along the way are plastic strip indicators indicating the open route. This route is a corridor route through the Piper Mountain Wilderness Area, so all side roads are closed, with exception of that going northeast to access Fish Lake Valley via Horsethief Canyon.

Roger Mitchell's INYO-MONO SUV TRAILS: A GUIDE TO 40 INTERESTING AND SCENIC FOUR-WHEELING EXCURSIONS IN INYO & MONO COUNTIES covers this route in depth starting on page 182, in the chapter entitled THE PIPER CORRIDOR. Mitchell prefaces the chapter with his opinion of legislation severely squelching recreational activities of the motorized kind. He also liberally sprinkles his description of the passage's natural history.

NOTE: This page upgraded with over 50 new photos taken in March 2008, in which I lead my friend and his Toyota Highlander over the trail. They are added below and are in sequence over the trail south to north (Eureka Valley to Gilbert Summit).

The start of the Eureka Valley to Gilbert Pass 4x4 Trail at its junction with the Big Pine-Death Valley road in western Eureka Valley.	My friend Graham C.'s 1991 Jeep Cherokee at the start of the trail in Eureka Valley. The background countryside shows the basic route, which skirts the bottom of Chocolate Mountain – dominating the background – and wiggles up the canyon between that peak and Sugarloaf – which is the small peak immediately to the right of Chocolate Mountain.
Tracking northward along the first mile of the route, the road is suitable for all SUV type vehicles. There is some washboard, but otherwise 4x4 isn't necessary.	As the route progresses northward, beautiful views southward to the dunes can be had. Make sure to periodically check your mirrors or take a peek behind for a photo op. Those coming southbound along this route will enjoy these scenes the entire way.
	In springtime, wildflowers will enhance the experience of this trail.
Along the way the route traverses a few washes and runs along the course of a couple. Most are easily crossed. However, after any runoff from summer thunderstorms, there might be vertical walls left behind from water cutting the sides, making approach and departure difficult. Some shovel work might be required to allow passage if you're the first one to happen by after hard runoff.	Cholla and beavertail cactus dot the route. Beavertail cactus often have beautiful blooms in springtime to delight the passerby. This photo looks southwest into the Inyo Range.
Another beautiful views across Eureka Valley. This scene is near where the trail turns up the canyon and wash that allows passage to the highlands of Gilbert Summit.
The route runs down a wash on this stretch, which might cause problems after flashfloods.	Entering the wash that runs between Chocolate Mountain and Sugarloaf. I've seen deer in this region during springtime while heavy snow is still holding fast to the slopes of the nearby Inyo Range or White Mountains.
This is the only part of the route that might cause problems for SUVs with low ground clearance. Going downhill it is merely a short drop over a bedrock stairstep.	Graham C.'s Cherokee n the canyon between Chocolate Mountain and Sugarloaf.
Graham C.'s Cherokee at the same spot as my truck above.	The sign indicates that the route passes through the Piper Mountain Wilderness Area.
In wintertime, the upper portion of the route will often have snow cover. However, the route will melt quickly, as the roadway stays on the sunny, southwest facing slope.	A short distance from Gilbert Summit, a side road runs a short distance to a saddle and an overlook of Fish Lake Valley and the country beyond. A short walk up to the top of a small high point to the north will give a broader panorama east. NOTE – March, 2008: This road is now barricaded and is closed to vehicle travel.
Looking back along the route to Gilbert Summit from the Fish Lake Valley overlook.	Gilbert Summit.

View of the Sierra Nevada and Inyo Ranges from the Gilbert Summit terminus of the Eureka Valley to Gilbert Summit 4x4 Trail. If you are heading back to Big Pine, it is about 45 minutes away. Or you can turn east and drop into Fish Lake Valley to Dyer, Nevada if you are passing through enroute to Nevada's backcountry adventures. Or, if you wish to return to Eureka Valley, you can return via Horsethief Canyon or North Eureka Road.

NEW PHOTOS – March 2008. Sequence is south to north, Eureka Valley to Gilbert Summit. All photos thumbnailed, click on any to open a full size image in a separate window.	Start of the trail in Eureka Valley.	This photo shows how far from the end of the pavement that the start of the route is. It's not very easy to spot the subtle sign indicating the route if you are traveling from west to east.	A short distance of the Big Pine-Death Valley road is the start of the Horsethief Canyon trail, the view looking north. On this trip, my friend Graham C. (silver Toyota Tacoma) and I are escorting Cliff V., of Oregon, along the trail in his Toyota Highlander.
View out my rearview mirror of Cliff V. and his Highlander going quite well over the easy first section of the route. The Eureka sand dunes are seen in the distance.	A line-up of my Tacoma, Cliff V's Toyota Highlander, and Graham C's Tacoma. Eureka dunes in the distance.	Typical of the trail in the first portion of the route.	As the route climbs to the northern side of the valley, the route gets a bit rougher. However, it poses no problems for Cliff's stock Highlander.
	Approaching Chocolate Mountain, still wearing a thin cap of snow on its head.	At a point several miles along the trail, it suddenly doubles back on itself. The road ahead is barricaded against further travel. Our vehicles are parked on the main trail as it doubles back, but soon turns north again. However, the first major wash crossing is just ahead. The view is southeast with the Eureka sand dunes in the distance.	Where the trail doubles back is this barricade, blocking an old road heading to a prospect. However, in the rocks in the near distance is a stone shelter, which makes a nice camp spot. It even has a built in fireplace, and was stocked with fresh scrap lumber on my visit in March, 2008. Nice views are to be had here.
The view from the rocks above the stone shelter. Our vehicles can be seen just below and left of center. The Eureka sand dunes and the Steele Pass country are beyond.	Cliff V. approaches the first wash crossing, which is easy as no recent heavy rains have occurred.	Cliff V. tackles the second wash crossing, this one a bit steeper and comes close to the limits of the approach/departure angles on his stock Toyota Highlander.	Trail conditions indicative of the second third of the trail in the northern end of Eureka Valley.

			This section of the trail comes close to the ground clearance limits of Cliff V's stock Toyota Highlander. He did hit several times in non-critical parts of the car's undercarriage through here.
			Entering the canyon between Chocolate Mountain and Sugarloaf.
Cliff and Graham entering the wash in the canyon between Chocolate Mountain and Sugarloaf.			In the canyon between Chocolate Mountain and Sugarloaf. A short distance ahead is found the small stairstep climb.
The small stairstep climb.	Cliff V. (left) and Graham C. (and his dog Toby) scout out the small stairstep climb to ensure Cliff's Highlander can make it.	My Garmin eTrex GPS give some scale to the small size of the stairstep.
As you can see, Cliff made it just fine in his Highlander.	Graham's Tacoma TRD 4WD gives scale to the clearance of the stairstep in a standard 4x4.	Above the stairstep, the trail tames down.

This spur road, formerly open a short distance to a mine and nice view of Fish Lake Valley, is now closed.		Closing in on Gilbert Summit. View is east to the Sylvania Mountains across Fish Lake Valley.	Chocolate Mountain's northern face holds snow longer in winter months. However, the trail generally stays on the sunny slopes.
		Gilbert Summit and CA168. Cliff and his Toyota Highlander proves that crossover SUVs can make it if driven with care and experience with what your car is capable of.

Maps

USGS: Horse Thief Canyon, Soldier Pass, Chocolate Mountain 7.5 minute quadrants.

Books

INYO-MONO SUV TRAILS: A GUIDE TO 40 INTERESTING AND SCENIC FOUR-WHEELING EXCURSIONS IN INYO & MONO COUNTIES, by Roger Mitchell. Available online as well in all book outlets in Inyo County, including most convenience stores.

Page Revised: 04/08/2008